BESAKIH TEMPLE
BESAKIH TEMPLE COVERING A VAST AREA THAT OFFERS BREATHTAKING MOUNTAIN SCENERY SURROUNDING THIS BEAUTIFUL AND ARTISTIC TEMPLE COMPLEX
Besakih Temple which is known as Bali's Mother Temple for over 1,000 years, sits 1,000 meters high on the southwestern slopes of Mount Agung. Besakih is an artistic and unique complex that comprises at least 86 temples which include the main Pura Penataran Agung (the Great Temple of State) and 18 others. Besakih is the biggest and holiest of the island temples and is surrounded by breathtaking and scenic rice paddies, hills, mountains, streams and more. To the Balinese, visiting the temple sanctuaries is a special pilgrimage. Mount Agung's high location gives it an almost mystical quality. Many stairs lead up to the sacred mountain, leading to the many temples that vary according to types, status and functions.
How to Get to Besakih Temple
Besakih Temple is located in the North West of Bali, near Bali's highest and most important and most spectacular Volcano, Mount Agung. The area is at an altitude of about 1,000 metres and is located on the southwestern slopes of Mount Agung, which is easily accessible from any areas of Bali. If you are coming from Kuta, Seminyak, Jimbaran and Denpasar, by heading to Sanur, then taking the Ida Bagus Mantra Bypass to Klungkung. Head north through Klungkung, taking the right hand turnoff at Menanga to Besakih. The journey from Kuta should take about 2 hours depending on travel time and traffic conditions.
What to Expect at Besakih Temple
Travelers can wander the stepped terraces and brick gateways of the 23 ancient temples that make up the complex and sit on several parallel ridges, some 3,280 feet (1,000 meters) up the side of this active volcano. The temples dedicated to the three main gods of Hinduism, Shiva, Vishnu and Brahma are surrounded by smaller structures housing temples to lesser gods or shrines to various Balinese castes. Besakih Temple features three temples representing the Hindu trinity. In the centre, Pura Penataran Agung represents Shiva the destroyer with white banners while to the right red banners represent Brahma the creator at Pura Kiduling Kreteg.
The black banners of Pura Batu Madeg represent Vishnu the preserver. The largest temple in the complex, Pura Penataran Agung, has different areas representing seven layers of the universe, each with their own shrines. Pura Pasimpangan on the downstream side (on the east of the main street) and Pura Pangubengan upstream are approximately three kilometres apart. Located on higher ground, the closest to Mount Agung's peak, Pura Pangubengan has great vistas and it’s about a 30-minute walk from the main Pura Penataran Agung. Around 10 minutes to the east of Pura Pengubengan is Pura Batu Tirtha. It is where holy water is sourced for the 'karya agung' ceremonies at Pura Besakih and Pekraman villages.
Four temples in the complex reflect four forms of God at compass points: Pura Batu Madeg in the north, Pura Kiduling Kreteg to the south, Pura Gelap in the east, and Pura Ulun Kulkul in the west. 'Batu ngadeg', literally 'standing stone', is found in the shrine of Meru Tumpang Sebelas at Pura Batu Madeg. This is where Vishnu is believed to descend. Still in the courtyard of Pura Batu Madeg, in front of Meru Tumpang Sebelas is the Pesamuan shrine (quadrangle-shaped with two lines of 16 poles) as a symbol of how Vishnu’s power interrelates with the world. At least 20 minutes to the northwest from Pura Batu Madeg, down the footpath to the valley and along the river, is Pura Peninjoan – erected on a tiny hill.
The beautiful views from here include all the shrines of Pura Penataran Agung, beaches and southern Bali in the distance. On the west is Pura Ulun Kulkul, famous for the main and most precious 'kulkul' (Balinese wooden slit gong) on the island. Kulkul is a signaling device to summon or convey special messages. On the northern side of Pura Ulun Kulkul is Pura Merajan Selonding where the 'Bredah' inscription mentions a king in Besakih, and a set of ancient gamelan called 'Selonding' are kept. Pura Gua, located on the eastern side of the main street, is the home of the dragon deity. There’s a big cave at the canyon of the river on the east that has its mouth closed due to erosion, but people still sometimes practise yoga there.
Pura Jenggala, southwest of Pura Penataran Agung, is also often called Pura Hyang Haluh by the local devotees. The 'Setra Agung' burial grounds is south of the temple. Here are sacred ancient stone statues in the form of the mythical garuda bird. Pura Basukian Puseh Jagat is located southeast of Pura Penataran Agung, the main foundation of Besakih Temple (Pura Besakih).
The Meaning Name of Besakih
The Besakih name comes from the word of Basuki, the old language from Sanskrit Wasuki, and then it became the Ancient Java Language. In Sanskrit, the Basuki means congratulation. In mythology of Samudramanthana has mentioned that Basuki is a dragon that twines the Mount Mandara. The omission has come from tradition megalithic which had been indicated that it had to be a sanctified place. It seems, the Besakih temple is coming from very old era which is far before the existence of Hinduism influence.
Hereinafter, an Ancient Bali king of Sri Kesari Warmadewa found the Merajan Selonding Temple in this temple complex area. He also commanded the Blanjong Monument that is located in Sanur Village. The Besakih Temple complex is built pursuant to cosmos balance. It is based on the nature conception which is disseminating the fundamental temple complex that is arranged pursuant to the way direction. So, this building can deputize nature as symbolic of the world balance existence.
Besakih Temple History
Besakih temple’s history dates back to megalithic times, with the most ancient section Pura Batu Madeg (temple of the Standing Stone) built around a central rock. Balinese people believe the founder of Besakih to be Sri Markandeya, a Javanese priest who was in Bali around the 10th Century AD. Besakih was already very important to the Balinese by the time the Javanese Majapahits conquered Bali in 1343. After that time the temple became the central temple of the Gelgel and Klungkung courts. The history of Besakih Temple (Pura Besakih) is also mentioned by the ancient manuscript and several inscriptions. Some of them include The Babad Gunung Agung, The Journey of Rsi Markandeya (Markandeya Purana), Penempahan Inscription, Belanjong Inscription, Malat Gede Inscription, Bredah Inscription (Raja Purana Besakih) and Gaduh Sakti Inscription.
1. Babad Gunung Agung
The history of Besakih Temple which is located at the slope of Mount Agung is inseparable from the history of the great mountain itself. Babad Gunung Agung is mentioned about the presence of this highest mountain which experienced the eruption several times that gave an impact on Pura Besakih.
A : The manuscript of Babad Gunung Agung which shows the year in Caka "Candra Sangkala Rudhira Bumi (year 11 Caka or 89 AD) mentioned that Mount Agung erupted.
B : The manuscript shows year in Caka "Candra Sangkala Gni Budhara" (year 13 Caka or 91 AD) mention the great eruption of Mount Agung for 2 months during the day and night. At this time Hyang Putran Jaya, Hyang Gni Jaya and Hyang Danuh down to Bali. Hyang Hyang Putran Jaya as Mahadeva glorified at the summit of Mount Agung as Ciwa. Hyang Gni Jaya was glorified in Puncak Gunung Lempuyang as Iswara and Hyang Danuh glorified in Mount and Lake Batur as Vishnu.
C : It mentions the eruption on Sukra Pon wuku Tolu Sasih Kelima, shows year 70 Caka or 148 AD and there the Salodaka (sulfur water) is formed in the crater of Mount Agung. Salodaka is considered a magical power by people in Bali and used at a great ceremony.
D : Mentioned in the year 111 Saka or 189 AD by Caka "Candra Sangkala Çasih Wak Wak" (year 111 Caka) the Mount Agung erupted again.Fifth. Mention that Mount Agung erupted in 1885 Saka or 1963. On 18 March 1963 the great ceremony Eka Dasa Ludra was held in Besakih.
2. Markandeya Purana
This manuscript mentions Besakih Temple (Pura Besakih) history which relates to a holy sage who came from India and lived in Mount Rawung named Rsi Markandeya. He was meditating in Mount Demulung then to Mount Hyang (Dieng) until he got a whisper to open the forest in Bali Island. The first mission, he led 8.000 people. Arriving in Bali, he immediately ordered to cut the tree and open the forest. The first mission failed, his followers got bad luck and died. Seeing this, Rsi Markandeya became sad and decided to return to Java with the rest of his followers.
He returned to meditate and was eventually guided by God to perform the ceremony before doing the activity to open the forest. He returned again to Bali, but only brought 4.000 people including other sages. Arriving back in Bali with other Priests and Rsi, he continues to implement the God Guidance and prepare the ceremony. After completing the ceremony, all his people were ordered to open the wilderness forest. By the will of God's permission, the activity to open the forest was successful, no trouble comes and the people are safe. After quite a while, Rsi Markandya ordered the people to stop the forest opening activity.
Yoghi Markandya then distributed the land to his followers to be irrigated, farm land, as well as the yard of their house. At the former location, Rsi Markandya planting a pitcher (Carat) which contained 5 types of metals such as gold, silver, copper, bronze and iron, which are called "Panca Datu" and Mirahadi gems (ruby major) with accompanied by ceremony and sprinkled by "Tirta Pangentas" (holy water). The location is called "Basuki" which means "safe" and then the small temple is builded. Furthermore the small temple is developed into the wider temple named Basukihan Temple. The Besukihan Temple is the forerunner of the founding of other temples at Besakih Temple (Pura Besakih).
3. Penempahan Inscription, Blanjong Inscription and Malat Gede Inscription
Besakih Temple (Pura Besakih) history is mentioned in the ancient inscriptions such as Penempahan Inscription, Blanjong Inscription and Malat Gede Inscription. All these inscriptions were written in Phalguna, 835 Saka or February 913. The inscription mentions the name of a king namely "Kesari Warmadewa" which ruled in Singhadwala. The King is believed to be the "Shri Wira Dalem Kesari" or "Kesari Warmadewa" who founded the palace in the Besakih named Singhadwala or Singhamandawa. The place to glorified the King Kesari is named "Merajan Selonding". Shri Kesari Warmadewa ruled in Bali in 882 AD until 914 AD.
4. Bredah Insription (Raja Purana Besakih) and Gaduh Sakti Inscription
The history of Besakih Temple (Pura Besakih) is also mentioned in two inscriptions namely Bredah Inscription which is stored in Merajan Selonding (known as Lontar Raja Purana Besakih) and Gaduh Sakti Inscription (in Selat Village). The two inscriptions are written in the caka year "Candra Sangkala Nawa Sangapit Lawang" and "Candra Sangkala Lawang Apit Lawang" which show the year 929 Saka or 1007 AD during the reign of King Udayani Warmadewa. Pura Besakih symbolizes the grandeur of Mother Temple. Since its inception, this amazing temple has been witness the development of the Ancient Balinese culture and still preserve the history to the present.
Besakih Temple Ceremony
Besakih Temple (Pura Besakih) was nominated as a World Heritage Site in 1995, but as yet remains unvested. There are at least 70 ceremonies or religious celebrations held each year here, as each shrine has its own anniversary, plus the big holidays based on the 210-day Balinese Hindu calendar system. Pura Basukian, Pura Penataran Agung, and Pura Dalem Puri are the mother of all village’ temples, namely Pura Puseh, Pura Desa, and Pura Dalem. Their shrines contain religious literature referring to how a temple must be built. During the daytime Besakih becomes a crowded tourist trap, with self-professed 'temple guards', touts, hawkers, and more. Bear in mind that you should wear a proper top, a sarong and a sash.
The best visiting times of the day are in the early morning and in the evening as the complex is much quieter during these hours. The official guides are easily identifiable with their symmetrically patterned traditional Batik shirts. The service is not free, though not expensive at all either considering how big the complex is. There's no obligation to hire a guide for tours around the complex. Sarongs and sashes are available for rent. They're also available for purchase at the many stalls outside, and bargaining is recommended. Women on their periods are forbidden entry.
Besakih Temple Entrance Ticket
Visiting Besakih Temple (Pura Besakih) is subject to an entrance ticket of IDR 60,000 for adults and IDR 30,000 for children. The ticket can be bought at the ticket counter in the parking lot which is located just at the entrance gate of Pura Besakih and the payment should be cash in Indonesian Rupiah (IDR), so please prepare small cash before you come here. Before you go to the temple area please be respectful at all times. Wear a sarong while visiting this temple complex, and make sure bare knees and shoulders are not visible.
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